As the Welsh county’s coastal national park hits 70, Vicky Smith finds plenty to celebrate while wandering serene sandy shores and visiting resort towns filled with good food and ideas...
Even in Britain’s earliest literature, Pembrokeshire attracted compliments. The Mabinogi, a collection of medieval folktales compiled in Middle Welsh, proclaimed it “a land of mystery and enchantment”. Centuries on, this remote southwestern corner of Wales continues to beguile with a coastline boasting more Blue Flag beaches than any other Welsh county and the UK’s least populated (and perhaps most magical) city, St Davids.
It is also home to Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, which celebrates its 70th anniversary in 2022 with an array of enticing days out. It’s very much in keeping with a theme. While COVID-19 may have deterred visitors these past two years, it hasn’t stopped Pembrokeshire gearing up to welcome them back. Along with the revamped waterfront at Milford Haven, there are newly expanded activity centres around Martletwy (Wild Lake Wales) and at Llys-y-Frân Lake, as well as a slew of innovative new restaurants, including Annwn, which serves up seasonal fine dining in a converted potting shed near Cleddau Woodlands.
The evening light on Carew Castle, Pembroke (Alamy)
Pembrokeshire is lapped by the sea on three sides. On my visit, I not only relished fine coastal vistas but picture-postcard resorts such as Tenby. I also made time to explore some lesser-known delights. In the small, hilly town of Narberth, where colourful buildings cluster around a war memorial, I stumbled on a hoard of independent shops ranging from antique bazaars to family jewellers. The town’s abundance of cafés, restaurants and delis crammed with curated goodies – check out Ultracomida – revealed an impressive gastronomic underbelly. It’s little surprise it’s twinned with Ludlow, the “Food Town” across the English border in Shropshire.
I also travelled to the Preseli Mountains, whose slopes are dotted with reminders of its past, from the Neolithic burial chamber of Pentre Ifan to Castell Henllys Iron Age village. And at Carew Millpond, where egrets waded in the castle’s reflection and martins flitted around the Tidal Mill, I pondered how Pembrokeshire’s history – of Christian pilgrims and Viking invasions, Celtic warriors and Tudor Kings – is as dramatic as its legendary landscapes. A place of mystery and enchantment indeed.
Tafarn Sinc (Vicky Smith)
Tenby's colourful harbour (Alamy)
Spend the morning in St Davids, the city with the smallest population in the UK, whose crowning glory is its cathedral. A site of worship since the 6th century, it nestles in a scenic hollow near the country’s most westerly point; this was also where St David, patron saint of Wales, was buried. Next, visit Oriel y Parc Gallery, where you’ll find art displays from Wales’ national collection alongside a helpful visitor centre, before pottering around some of the many independent treasures in this small, charming city. Have lunch at The Really Wild Emporium, which serves foraged meals in a restored Art Deco building; or if you’re feeling adventurous, try innovative insect-based cuisine at Grub Kitchen. In the afternoon, take a trip to the Preseli Mountains, a medley of heath and moorland studded with quirky landmarks, such as the community-owned Tafarn Sinc pub and its old railway line, as well as prehistoric sites like the Iron Age roundhouses of Castell Henllys . Stop at Newport or Fishguard, both picturesque coastal towns with an indie vibe, then round off the day with hearty fare at The Sloop Inn, a cosy pub between Fishguard and St Davids.
Now it’s time to explore central and south Pembrokeshire. Start with popular seaside resort Tenby, whose lively harbour, cobbled streets, medieval town walls and brightly painted clifftop houses, perched above sandy beaches, make it a tourist honeypot, so get there early, before the crowds. Just along the coast, Saundersfoot is another jewel worth checking out. Next, head inland to Pembroke, a walled town whose mighty castle dates to 1093 and was the birthplace of Henry VII. Grab lunch at the onsite cafe before enjoying the nearby waterside walk, or strolling into town and browsing the many local shops and galleries. Pop into the Grade II-listed Georgian Town Hall, which hosts an eclectic museum and a series of superb murals depicting Pembroke’s eventful past. Afterwards, make a detour to Daugleddau Estuary (dubbed “Pembrokeshire’s hidden waterway”), which is a haven for wading birds and includes sights such as Carew Castle and Tidal Mill. Finally, stop off in Narberth, celebrated for its diverse shopping scene and dining delights. A meal at Madtom or food hall Hwb is a fitting end to any visit.
Sophie Hurst (preseliventure.co.uk)
“Take the circular Abermawr Walk through ancient National Trust woodland to a wild and remote beach with extraordinary wildlife on its shores. Next, cross to Aberbach beach and follow the trail up the valley to Melin Tregwynt, a white-washed woollen mill with restored water wheel that has been weaving iconic patterned blankets from Welsh sheep’s wool since the 17th century and has been run by the same family for over 100 years.”
Sophie Hurst, director at Preseli Venture
Beautiful Pembroke (Vicky Smith)
This glorious 300km trail ranges from secluded coves and pastel ports to over 50 beaches and 40 Iron Age forts. You don’t have to tackle it all at once; the official website has a wealth of suggested itineraries, taking in relaxing strolls alongside more challenging stretches.
Another highlight of the county’s coast is its islands, which promise the same fusion of ancient history and soul-stirring scenery as their mainland counterpart. Many are now nature reserves, with residents such as endearing puffins and grey seal pups.
Whether meandering down the River Teifi in a Canadian dug-out canoe with Top of the Woods (topofthewoods.co.uk), spotting red deer and peregrine falcons as you go, or looking out for kingfishers and otters at the Welsh Wildlife Centre, don’t miss the chance to meet critters inland, too.
Experiences span from tours at Velfrey Vineyard to coastal foraging with Craig Evans. Producers Atlantic Edge Oysters even farm their own shellfish, while initiatives like the Peninsula Producers Food Hub spotlight regional purveyors.
Twr y Felin (Alamy)
Twr y Felin, a former windmill with a claim to be Wales’ “first contemporary art hotel”, offers an AA-award-winning stay in St Davids and is home to a well-regarded restaurant, Blas. Expanded last year, it features 41 rooms (B&B doubles from £195pn) and over 100 pieces of commissioned art.
Alternatively, Solva-based Quality Cottages lists a wide range of stays across the county and has increased its portfolio to include more family- and dog-friendly options (from £448 per week).
Key train stations include Haverfordwest and Pembroke, with trains from outside Wales often connecting in Swansea or Cardiff. Various buses (often with names like Puffin Shuttle and Poppit Rocket) traverse the National Park coastline, though some may find exploring easier by car. See visitpembrokeshire.com.
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